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Food

BLUEFIN GRILLE,

1 Orms St., Providence (272-5852).

There is a tranquil feeling to the Bluefin Grille. Subdued lighting, wood-paneled walls, tasteful decor with many art deco touches. The menu is wide-ranging. Appetizers tantalize: smoked salmon wrapping yellowfin tartar with avocado ($8), shrimp and dill ravioli with a ragout of wild mushrooms ($8). As the name of the place suggests, seafood is the specialty here, although other entrees include roasted marinated vegetables on pasta ($13) and a 20-ounce Porterhouse ($26). The signature attraction, however, is the "Taste of the Bluefin" prix fixe. For $29 a person (the entire table must partake), you share three appetizers and three desserts, and each person selects from a choice of four entrees. For entrees, my dining mate chose the salmon, which was very fresh and poached in champagne sauce. I had the beef filet, which was so tender that my knife nearly sank through it. What's more, the accompanying bearnaise sauce was served in a scooped-out plum tomato and seasoned with tarragon. What more could we ask? Desserts. The chocolate truffles flowing with bittersweet filling and the raspberries alongside Mascarpone-filled pastry shells were delightful. But the real magic moment came with our two creme brulees: under the caramelized sugar crust was a custard flavored with lavender! Between executive chef Franco Paterno's menu design and chef Phillippe Audax's execution, Bluefin Grille is a fine addition to the top ranks of Providence restaurants.

Full review.








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